While following our video tutorials or reading about our products, you may come across a term you do not recognize. We’ve compiled a cabinet refacing vocabulary list to help.
General Cabinet Refacing Vocabulary
Cabinet Box: The main wood structure that determines the shape and size of your cabinets.
Cabinet Face: The outward facing cabinet front where doors attach.
Face Frame: The face frame is built on the front of the cabinet box and looks a bit like a picture frame. This is where the cabinet doors attach.
Frameless: A cabinet face that does not use a face frame. Instead of mounting doors to the face frame, frameless construction uses concealed hinges. Also referred to as European cabinets.
Reveal: The amount of face frame you see around the door and drawer fronts when they are closed.
Rails: Horizontal pieces of wood in the face frame and cabinet doors.
Stiles: Vertical pieces of wood in the face frame and cabinet doors.
Raised Panel:The center panel of the cabinet door has decorative elements that are contoured to add dimension.
Inset Panel: Also referred to as a flat panel, the center panel of the cabinet door is flat, without any contour.
Side Panels: Sides of the cabinets with no doors attached.
End Panel: Side of the cabinet that extends to the wall.
Miter: Also known as a miter joint, is a joint made by cutting two pieces, usually at 45°, to form a right angle.
Cope and Run: Also known as Cope and Stick Joint, this is a kind of mortise and tenon joint. Tongues are cut in the sides of the rails, fitting into matching grooves in the stiles.
Dovetail: Strong joint often used for drawer boxes. Matching V-like structures are cut into the edges of joining ends to form a secure, tight lock. This is a kind of mortise and tenon joint.
Corbel: Decorative, supporting wall bracket placed under countertop overhang or floating shelves.
Kolbe Korner: A type of L mounting bracket used for drawer fronts.
MDF: An abbreviation of Medium-Density Fiberboard, MDF is a durable and inexpensive alternative to solid wood for cabinet doors and moldings. It resists warping and looks identical to solid wood using any of our tinted lacquers.
1/4″ Skin Pre-cut Plywood: Premiere refacing material to cover your cabinet box. It is made of MDF core 1/4″ inch material that does not bubble, lifting, snag, or crack like when using veneer.
Veneer: A thin decorative wood covering applied to the cabinet box. A more traditional solution for refacing cabinets. We offer peel and stick veneer.
Banding: 1-inch wide veneer that is specifically designed to go on the inside edges of all your cabinet faces.
Shaker: One of our most popular cabinet door styles. It has simple, squared off rails and stiles and a flat recessed panel. Often painted white.
Bead Board: Decorative wood center panel style with evenly-spaced grooves. Often paired with the squared off rails and stiles that are featured in Shaker. Great for a classic farmhouse look.
Select-Grade: Highest quality cabinet door wood. Select-grade is color blemish free and perfect for our stains.
Paint-Grade: Cabinet door wood that has minor color blemishes from sap but are otherwise identical to our select-grade wood. These color blemishes may show through our stains but will not show through our opaque tinted lacquer.
Rustic Wood: Cabinet wood with wood knots and heavy grain. We currently stock Rustic Alder wood.
Stain: Stains are used to add color and bring out the natural beauty of our cabinet doors and refacing materials. All Outside the Box stains are water-based and grain, knots, and wood color will show through.
Tinted Lacquer: A superior alternative to painted cabinets with a more durable finish. Opaque, hard surface top coat mixed with pigments that completely covers the wood.
Custom Glaze: Accented finish that is hand applied over the stain or tinted lacquer of a finished door. Highlights the door details by seeping into the crevices to add depth.
Examples of Tinted Lacquer
Crown Molding: In the case of cabinets, crown molding is used for capping tops of cabinets to complete a finished top edge.
Base Molding: Similar to crown molding, this completes the bottom edge of cabinets between the lower cabinets and the floor.
Toe Kick Molding: Base molding attached to the largest rail of the face frame located at the bottom of the cabinet to the floor.
Light Rail Molding: This molding goes underneath the upper cabinets and is generally used to hide lighting fixtures attached under the upper cabinets.
Outside Corner Molding / Corner Cap Molding: These corner caps cover the 90° corners on all of the cabinets.
Scribe Molding: The scribe molding has a flat edge on one side and a beveled edge on the other. When cabinets are attached to the wall, there are usually uneven gaps between them and the scribe is used to cover any imperfections.
Screen Molding: A versatile molding beveled on two sides.
S4S: Surfaced on all four sides.
Miter Saw: A power miter saw, also known as a chop saw or drop saw, is a power tool used to make a quick, accurate crosscuts and miters at a selected angle.
Pin Nailer: A finish nailer for fastening trim and molding without splitting the wood. Uses very thin 23 gauge pins.
Brad Nailer: A brad nailer is a versatile woodworking tool with great holding power. Uses a larger 18 gauge nails.
Multi-tool: A common name for an oscillating power tool that takes a variety of attachment heads. Sometimes referred to as a Master Tool. Can be used to cut, grind, saw, sand, polish, and more.
Nail Punch: A metal rod with a point at the end, struck by a hammer, used to sink a nail below the surface of the wood.
Impact Drill: A power drill that uses both bit rotation and concussive strikes to drive screws in with greater torque.
Chip Brush: A type of paint brush made of natural fibers and a wood handle. Comes in a variety of sizes and can be used for paint, glue, cleaning, and more.